Art Life: Beat the heat in Madrid
August in Madrid
Yes it’s August in Madrid and it is hot hot hot!
But worry not, there’s always plenty of places to go in order to get you out of the heat of the sun. Just make sure you take the subway rather than walking - even if the distance looks doable on the map. Madrid can be hilly in parts and this with a combination of temps hitting 40 degrees celcius makes for tough walks.
So take the underground and stay cool in comfort. As a further tip, check out the websites of cultural sites and museums before you visit because many of them offer free admission on certain days and times.
As I mentioned, in a previous blog post, I am here on an Art Residency for July and August so here’s some of the places I’ve visited while here in Madrid:
Sorolla House and Museum
The Sorolla museum is located in a beautiful early 20th-century mansion that Sorolla himself designed with his family in mind. It has been carefully preserved to maintain the atmosphere of the artist's home and studio.
The museum holds an extensive collection of Sorolla's works, making it the most comprehensive collection of his paintings, drawings, and sketches. It also includes personal belongings, letters, and photographs, offering a deep dive into his life and artistic journey It is a fascinating museum and well worth visiting.
The Sorolla Museum is not only a tribute to the artist’s work but also a preserved slice of his personal life. It stands out among Madrid's art institutions for its intimate setting and the opportunity it provides to experience art in the context where it was created.
Along with the house there is also a fine garden and you can sit in this and contemplate after you have visited the museum Of note, is the fact that Sorolla designed the gardens surrounding his home, and they were Inspired by the gardens of the Alhambra in Granada and other Andalusian gardens, they reflect the artist's love for light, color, and natural beauty.
Location:
General Martínez Campos, 37, Madrid, Spain
Carmen Thyssen Museum
The Carmen Thyssen Museum is located close to the Prado Museum and I visited it twice in 8 days. It is that good!
It has an amazing collection of art from the 13th to the 20th centuries, covering Italian Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Impressionism, Post-Impressionism, and early Modernism. however I was most impressed by the 19th and 20th Century art which includes Chagall, Van Gogh, Georgia O’Keefe, Pollock and Mark Rothko, Karel Appel, Francis Bacon and Lucian Freud to name but a few.
But what was most impressive to me was that I got to see my first in the flesh Eddie Martinez painting!! Wow, very unexpected as I did not know one of his works were in the collection - it is a recent painting so presumably it is a new addition. I’ve been a fan of Brooklyn Artist Eddie Martinez for probably 15-20 years when he was emerging on the scene and while I’ve seen lots of his work online I’ve never seen an actual physical painting. It was great!!
Overall I thought that this gallery was one of the best I’ve ever visited so I highly recommend it.
Prado Museum
The Prado Museum, or Museo del Prado, is one of the most renowned art museums in the world, located in the heart of Madrid, Spain in what is known as the "Golden Triangle of Art," along with the Reina Sofía Museum and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum. Founded in 1819, it houses one of the finest collections of European art, spanning from the 12th to the early 20th centuries.
The museum was originally conceived by King Charles III and opened under the reign of his grandson, King Ferdinand VII, with the support of Queen Maria Isabel de Braganza. It was initially established as the Royal Museum of Paintings and Sculptures to display the Spanish Crown's vast collection of art and then over the years, the Prado's collection has expanded through acquisitions, donations, and transfers, becoming a public museum
The museum is particularly famous for its Spanish masterpieces, including works by artists like Diego Velázquez, Francisco Goya, and El Greco, but also boasts significant collections of Italian, Flemish, and other European art.
Out of the massive collection, (this place is huge - give yourself plenty of time to visit) the piece I was most interested in seeing was Caravaggio's "David with the Head of Goliath" (1600) which is a highlight of the Italian collection. The painting has had a stunning restoration and is displayed in a well-lit space that highlights Caravaggio's use of chiaroscuro, which allowed me to fully appreciate the dramatic contrast between light and dark, which is a hallmark of the artist's work. It is a very effective display of this Caravaggio masterpiece by the museum and it is worth visiting this gallery to see this piece along.
Location:
Paseo del Prado
Museo Reina Sofia
The museum is housed in a former 18th-century hospital, which was transformed by architects Antonio Fernández Alba, José Luis Iñiguez de Onzoño, and Antonio Vázquez de Castro, with later additions by Jean Nouvel. The mix of historic and modern architecture adds to the museum’s appeal, particularly the striking glass elevator towers and the red-and-black extension by Nouvel. Along with the massive internal exhibtion spaces, there is a courtyard is a tranquil space with sculptures and a beautiful layout, offering a peaceful environment within the bustling city.
Housing a collection of Joan Miro’s, Salvadore Dali’s and more…..including of course, Pablo Picasso’s Guernica - of which I’ve blogged about here in this post about what is currently inspiring me.
Overall this is an incredible museum with phenomenal architecture aswell as stunning city views from the glass lifts on the exterior of the building - it is a must see for any visitor to the city of Madrid.
Location:
Calle de Santa Isabel, 52, 28012 Madrid
Cine Verdi
Cine Verdi is a charming little cinema that shows English Language films with Spanish subtitles. It is easy to get to by subway with a close stop on line 1 being Iglesia. It’s got a great programme of movies and the freshest popcorn that I have ever tasted! It has no bar which I thought a little surprising as it would be nice to have a beer or wine before a film, but there are plenty of tapas bars close by if you are making it a date night. Ticket prices are very reasonable with a special offer for all day Tuesday with tickets being 4 euro (and I think 3 euro for Seniors).
Location:
Bravo Murillo, 28, 28015 Madrid
El Retiro Parque
El Retiro Parque not just a park but a cultural and social hub where locals and tourists alike come to enjoy the best of Madrid's outdoor life. You can visit the Crystal Palace which houses temporary art exhibitions from the Museo Reina Sofia or even hire a row boat to go out on the lake! For me though the best thing is to bring a sandwich and make a small picnic in one of the park’s shaded areas.
Location:
Retiro, 28009 MAdrid
For eats……
Galeria Canalejas Foodhall
We visited Garcia de la Navarra for tapas in Galeria Canalejas but there is lots to choose from including Spanish fare and also international offerings. In the basement of the high end Galeria Canalejas shopping mall, the foodhall is atmospheric and elegant with various restaurants and cocktail bars. If you are looking for a luxury experience this is the place to go!
Location:
Pl. de Canalejas, 1, Centro, 28014 Madrid
Primo Mexican Restaurant
Primo is a casual restaurant with great tasting food and margaritas. We plan on visiting again this Friday which tells how good it is. Offering a very reasonable Menu del Dia at lunch time, there food is well priced with good serving sizes. Located close to Sol Train Station it is great Madrid city restaurant for a fun evening out.
Location:
Cra de S. Jerónimo, 32, Centro, 28014 Madrid
This is just a few of the things that I like to do in Madrid - let me know in the comments below if there is anything else I should put on my must do list!